Suzira Hassan's MessageStream

Comfortable, Classic Cardy Boots: UGG

Suzira Hassan (fashionista) — 2008-07-29T16:17:14Z

One in oatmeal color is a beauty.

via My Fashion Life by Danielle Eccleston on 7/28/08

Oat, black and grey I could definitely use a pair for everyday. The Classic Cardy Boot, made by the definition of comfort- UGG, are not only easy on your tootsies, they make it easier to get dressed in the morning. The grey is absolutely my favourite. It can be paired with any ensemble- black or brown centric and allows its owner to go about their day in the epitome of comfort.

The knitted exterior is softer to the eye then any other UGG I have seen, but the material of the boot also adds in some texture to off set the, sometimes, dreary outfits the go hand in hand with Winter. The buttons along the side of the boot enables the “sweater” feel that is the Classic Cardy boot.

If you are interested in this boot, there is already a long wait list at many of the major department stores. One would think this is the new Hermes!

Not much has changed from last year- UGG certainly has secured a hold on the shoe market for this Fall. Go out and reserve your pair now! $140 available at UGG Australia

Origami Fashion

Suzira Hassan (fashionista) — 2008-07-29T16:11:01Z

Paper stuff. These are beautiful.

via Coquette by Natalie Zee Drieu on 7/28/08

I love Cindy Ng's Origami Blog lately for her origami inspired fashion posts. (BTW, check out Cindy's beautiful origami jewelry which I've posted about previously on Coquette.) Lately she's been finding some great inspiring fashions including Chloe's Leather Alligator Fold Clutch that's been seen on such celebs as Gossip Girl's Leighton Meester pictured below.

Photo: PR Photos / Janet Mayer

These origami shoe designs by Dutch designer Marloes ten Bhömer are simply breathtaking. See her work at the Virtual Shoe Museum.

Now that you've gotten the inspiration, here are more origami fashions you can pick up for yourself:

Rick Owens Lilies Origami wool coat ($780 at Net-A-Porter)

Bensoni Black Stretch Knit Origami Detailed Top ($148.80 at Bluefly)

Sleeveless Origami Knit Dress ($150 at Banana Republic)

Cynthia Steffe Cream Cotton Pointelle Origami Inset Dress ($189.60 at Bluefly)

Eileen Shields Hannah Origami Flat Slide (On Sale $147.50 at Shopbop)

Botkier for Target Handbags Have Arrived Early

Suzira Hassan (fashionista) — 2008-07-29T16:09:25Z

I fear other retailers to follow Target. Not happy with margin erosion :(

via Fashion PR division of Pierce Mattie Public Relations, A Fashion Public Relations. Fashion publicity, promotion marketing firm by Heather Viggiani on 7/18/08

Target "Cheaps" Us Out with Secret Early Launch of Latest Designer Handbag Line

I have a confession to make. Upon seeing the words "Botkier for Target" in the two-page ad in Lucky Magazine's August issue, I shamelessly hurried to my blackberry to enter the July 21st launch date to be sure I didn't miss it. Knowing I am not the only woman in New York City salivating at the thought of Botkier design at Target prices, I wanted to make certain not to miss the date, but it turns out the bags are already available in stores and online as we speak and have been since the 16th. I happened upon the secret launch only due to the coincidence of my frequent visits to Target’s website.

Maybe Target put the handbags on shelves in a hush-hush manner in an attempt to avert the primal like behavior of the women who have been known to await the store's opening line up outside on a designer launch day. I can’t imagine anything reveling the Roberto Cavalli for H&M launch that I so bravely took part in back in the winter (read: Filene’s Basement Running of the Brides).

The misleading launch date made me upset with Target, but not for long. Monica Botkier does not disappoint with her price-tag friendly counterparts to her normally expensive lavish leather goods. Although my favorite design still remains the bag chosen to represent the line in ad campaigns pictured above (I purchased it in silver this morning), there are more than a few obsession worthy bags. Monica Botkier has made her mark in the fashion world with handbags that marry luxury and function all with a modern edge lent from her native New York City and she brings that same design approach to her line for Target.

Botkier (the real deal)

Botkier Isis Hobo, $625, Neiman Marcus

Botkier for Target (the great steal)

Botkier for Target Hobo Bag

in Fucshia, $39.99; Target

My newly purchased Botkier bag joins two other Target designer bags in my closet, compliments of Loeffler Randal and Gryson. While there is obvious differences in quality with these discount bags, I must point out they are perfect for the wear and tear of city living. I wouldn’t be taking Botkier arm candy onto the subway at it’s normal retail prices (one handbag can set you back up to $675), the Target versions, priced from $19.99 to $49.99, make for a more practical choice for daily towage. Plus, on-trend gray python and pink fuchsia will make you smart and fashionable. Thanks once again Target.

HELSINKI - on the street, kamppi & punavuori, 07/28/08

Suzira Hassan (fashionista) — 2008-07-29T16:06:26Z

Nice collection. You gotta love peeps across the Atlantic pond.

via Face Hunter by dévisageur on 7/28/08

Giving instructions to a pattern grader pt.3

Suzira Hassan (fashionista) — 2008-07-29T16:05:13Z

Grading chart is very useful.

via Fashion-Incubator by Kathleen Fasanella on 7/29/08

Note: I'm out of town (out of the country) so checking in will be sporadic. I'll be back Saturday. If you want your comment to publish right away, omit your url (even my comments are held if I include a url). Who knows when I can get to approving your comment?
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Ah, finally we come to the tail end of this riveting series (part one, part two). I know these entries haven't garnered much response but I do know that someday these will come in handy and then you'll be happy it's here. At least that's what I tell myself. I neglected to mention another entry in this genre, Sending patterns off for correction that may be similarly useful at some point.

Hopefully this entry will be more enjoyable and useful that the two previous ones; this is the entry I wanted to write at the outset -it's the funnest one and I get to use a really cool toy- but I had to do the ground work for it first. In many respects, even those of you who don't grade, can actually jump ahead and use the suggestions and guidelines in this entry (preferred); the other entries covering theory so you'd understand the necessity of some of what I'll explain here.

The really cool toy I'm using for this entry is a software program called StyleFile which was produced by Patternworks Inc. I do think it's the greatest thing since indoor plumbing. Any technical package software (PLM or PDM) will do this, I just like this one because it was designed by pattern makers to be used by designers for managing their production. That it costs 80% less than competing products is icing on the cake.

A guide to providing grading information: advanced level
You'll need to send four things.

The pattern
A good technical sketch
A spreadsheet listing the grades per POM code.
The sewing specifications

If you don't have a good technical sketch, supply a garment sample. Regarding the spreadsheet, you don't have to have specialized software like StyleFile or Web PDM although it certainly helps. Below is a screen shot of my technical sketch with POM codes listed off to the side.

You can download the pdf to print for comparison. The reason it lists "0" in the "10" column (the sample size) is because I haven't filled in those slots in the database. Otherwise that field would be populated with data. Should the question arise, those measures should be taken from the pattern, not the sample. To test the accuracy of the sample against the pattern, one would do something called a "garment test" (in StyleFile). You always use the first generation item (a pattern as opposed to sample) at this level, meaning the pattern engineering level.

Next, you need to provide the specific grades per each POM code. A screen shot of the grading report is shown below.

Again, for your convenience, I've included the pdf of this report.

The interesting thing about this grading chart (the software really) is that it provides a plus or minus tolerance. While this is typically used as the tolerance standard by which one would accept or reject product samples, it's also useful for grading. The reason being, as careful as one is, one can generate an error in the rules and the tolerance provides guidance to the grader as to one's preferences in the event choices are forced -without having to run back and forth to the client every five minutes during the grading process. This way, the grading can proceed and the client can later revise their actual POM preferences before any products are made. Tolerances should remain the same. If I'd entered the actual measures of the pattern for these specific codes, I could use another report that would spit out what the pattern dimensions (and garment) should be for each size.

Also, it probably isn't obvious but it will (or should be) apparent to the grader, that there's a pecking order of preference. Such pattern emerges that it is obvious that the overall length of the garment should grow 5/8ths inch. This matters in the event there's a conflict with the stipulated grade movement of the armhole length (AFL). As any grader who looks at this chart knows, 1/4" in AFL does not necessarily equivocate to 1/4" in vertical measure but it is obvious that the armhole section of the garment should grow that in length in that area -which means the AFL may actually need to grow a total of 3/8" because 1/8th at the scye and side seam is now a horizontal movement adjusting for the overall girth grow of a total 1". A grader could pick that out with these specs, like I said, a pattern emerges.

You need to include sewing specifications so the pattern grader can spot check their work in the event there is a discrepancy. Grading will not correct pattern errors, it will magnify them. That's why a lot of pattern services won't grade a pattern unless they made it and also, why they won't sew a proto or sample of a pattern they didn't make either. Pattern graders don't want to be blamed for the magnification of errors that preceded them. At any rate, unless you specifically contract for it, the grader will not check the pattern to ensure that all seams match. It depends but don't assume a service doesn't offer this service if you don't see it listed or mentioned. Personally, I like to check patterns. I got some a few weeks ago, the lines of which were really pretty. Clean, smooth long lines (obviously a good cutter, no choppiness), pretty crotch curves. It's a pleasure working with patterns who's maker obviously has integrity.

Invisible Tailors Spring 2008 Lookbook

Suzira Hassan (fashionista) — 2008-07-28T14:56:43Z

I don't like leather jackets

via Highsnobiety.com - Online Streetwear Magazine on 7/28/08

We present you the lookbook of the _NV_S_BL_ (Invisible) Tailors Spring 2009 collection. The brand launched with the Fall 2008 collection that is getting into stores very soon, here you see now what comes next.

The Canadian brand exclusively works with leather and presents a wide range of pieces for both men and women. There are several stand-out pieces in the new collection, but the biking jacket (here above) has to be one of our favorite.

We have so far not seen the product live, but our expectations are high.

Many more images of the new Invisible Tailors Spring 2009 collection after the jump.

Seersucker Dress, As Promised

Suzira Hassan (fashionista) — 2008-07-28T14:50:10Z

This one is nice.

via A Dress A Day by Erin on 7/24/08

Here's the seersucker dress (the Duro Junior pattern again) I promised to post when I got back (and I did get back, despite my flight being canceled; I got the next-to-last seat in the last row of the flight that left before my flight, and ended up arriving half an hour later than my flight was supposed to -- myriad and strange are the ways of airlines).

(The antepenultimate and ultimate seats on that flight -- i.e., the two seats next to me -- were occupied by Masters of The Universe who were swapping stories of the first-class seats they'd lost when their flights were canceled. Oh, woe!)

Anyway, I wasn't wearing this dress on the plane, although I did actually wash it during my trip so I could wear it twice! The weather was so horribly humid, and this dress is so cool, that it was a necessity. (Also, being seersucker, it dried in about twenty minutes after I hung it up.) I wished I had eleven of these so I could change into them twice a day.

At first I was a bit worried that this was too "swimsuit coverup," but after wearing it for a while that wore off.

There's a few more changes I want to make to this pattern: I want to make the pockets wider and deeper, and sew the top of them into the waistband for extra support. I need to lengthen the front bodice another half-inch; and alter the seam across the top of the shoulder so that it curves down a bit. (I like the sleeve to follow the arm, not stick straight out.) I lopped two inches off the skirt before I hemmed it, but it would be more efficient if I altered the pattern piece instead ... and maybe make the skirt a teeny bit fuller, too, if only to better accommodate the bigger pockets.

Right now I want to make it in lemon-yellow linen with brown linen banding, dark gray poplin with red, a pink-and-maroon floral fabric (better than it sounds) ... the list goes on. Maybe for my next trip I really will have eleven versions!

Oh, and maybe next time I'll match the stripes. But probably not:

And quickly: Jen at MOMSPatterns has started using "fauxlero" as a key word, meaning you can search for fauxleros on her site. AND she's running a 20% off sale from right now thru Sunday night, midnight EST with coupon code 'fauxlero'. (And there's a nice history of the word fauxlero and list of fauxlero patterns on the Vintage Pattern Wiki ...)

Comic Con Dresses Are the Best Dresses

Suzira Hassan (fashionista) — 2008-07-28T14:48:44Z

via A Dress A Day by Erin on 7/28/08

Kristen is a very, very lucky person. First of all, she was lucky enough to find this fabric on eBay:

Then, she was lucky enough to go to Comic Con, which I have always wanted to do ... not just for the comics, but for the clothes. I mean costumes. Whatever.

And finally, she (naturally) decided that a trip to Comic Con needed a new dress, and made this one:

Hmm, perhaps now that I think about this, it might not be luck -- it's starting to look suspiciously like good planning and hard work ... which is even more impressive!

You should totally go check out Kristen's blog) to see the side and back views and the awesome red shoes she chose to go with the dress, too.

good volume sprays?

Suzira Hassan (fashionista) — 2008-07-23T11:12:22Z

They do things very very differently.

via AsiaJam Asian Fashion Forums by sakura_and_sasuke_forever on 7/23/08

im getting my hair layerd again soon with blond streaks(maybe) so im wondering if anyone knows any good volume sprays i tried a few but it makes my hair feel like crap and it doesnt last.
and does anyone know how to tease ur hair? i know one,but thats all.
and if anyone has some tips that would be really awesome =D

here's some pics to let you guys know what im talking about =3

any idea's?

Fashion trends move back to 40s.

Suzira Hassan (fashionista) — 2008-07-23T10:31:10Z

Friend is saying this retro move is a given thingie.